Weber Spirit and Genesis models since 2010 have the control knobs across the front of the firebox which is different from any of the Spirit or Genesis models in previous decades. This change means the burners are totally different, control valves are different, knobs, orifices, supports, architecture….Everything about these Weber models is different from previous models. Unfortunately this also refers to who is manufacturing the barbecues.
If we had a Weber model fabricated in 2003 and another model from 1995 a lot of the parts would be exactly the same or very similar but this is no longer the case. In our previous tutorials about Weber fuel conversions we’ve known the video instructions and written instructions could easily be applied to Weber models manufactured any time until 2010. This particular video is specifically for these new Spirit and Genesis models since 2010 which have the controls across the front of the fire box.
In my own opinion, changing the Weber orifices is easier going in through the firebox instead of disassembling the control panel. I believe this because these barbecues have only been made since 2010 and they’re not typically so filthy that it is difficult to have the burners and electrodes removed. In older barbecues I usually will suggest removing the controls to get to the valves and orifices but with a newer model that has not been used a thousand times, the bolts are usually fairly strong and it is easy to remove the burners. Eventually this will not be the case.
This image shows the back of the firebox where the barbecue grill burners are held in place by a bolt threaded into the cast aluminum firebox. When we remove the burners we will remove this bolt so the burner is able to be lifted straight up from the back and then we slide the burner towards the back as we lift the pipe burner.
This schematic from the assembly specifications in the Weber users manual shows the stainless steel pie burner being removed. This schematic drawing also shows us what we cannot see happening inside the control panel, behind the firewall. The front of the burner is the air-shutter which installs by sliding onto the end of the control valve where the orifice is attached.
The schematic also shows loosening the wire to the electrode which is clipped to the burner but because I usually do not remove the control panel for these conversions I usually allow the wire to simply pull free as we pull the burner off the valve.
Also shown here is that the burner will have a little bit of wiggle to it. This is normal. The galvanized steel bolt tightens into the cast aluminum firebox so we do not want to risk over-tightening anything. Aluminum is a malleable metal and can be broken very easily.
The bolt holds the burner perfectly straight, level, square and unable to slide off the valve. A little bit of wiggle is not going to cause any problems.
As the burner is removed from the firebox the electrode wire will draw tight and will stop us from continuing to lift out the bbq burner. Unclip the ignition from the burner by sliding the electrode back towards the front of the burner air shutter.
The clip on the ignition electrode is able to get caught in the sliding air shutter so pay attention to the electrode clip as the igniter slides out of the clip on the pipe burner.
Once the electrode has been disengaged from the burner we can leave the ignitor alone; just leave the electrodes lying in the barbecue until it is time to reinstall the burners and we will re-attach the electrode ignition to the burner.
Once the burner is out of the Weber Genesis and Spirit post-2010 barbeque grill model we can see through the hole where the burner came through and we can see the orifice in the end of the control valve.
If we are going to convert the fuel type in a barbecue grill, we will need to replace these orifices with the new orifices for liquid propane or for natural gas depending on the type of fuel conversion being conducted.
When we show this image and in the video above how we replace one gas jet orifice with an other gas orifice we can see where and how the orifice threads into the valve thick with a putty sealant.
Unfortunately when we are converting the fuel type in a post-2010 Weber Genesis and Spirit barbecue grill model, we cannot see the orifice in the valve but instead have to feel our way through the orifice replacements. In the video you will see I have placed a square of a paper napkin into the 7mm socket being used to install the gas orifice. I do this because the orifice hex-head is so thin, the orifice is able to slide into the socket and be too deep inside the socket so the threads cannot be threaded into the valves.
I put a square of paper into the socket so the 9/32″ orifice hex-head can be held by the socket driver without the orifice sliding deeper into the socket and becoming unable to be threaded safely into the control valve.
When threading the orifice into the valve, hand tighten the orifice until the orifice is tight. This is usually tight enough but if we do use a tool like a ratchet to tighten the socket, be extraordinarily slow and careful. We are threading soft brass in to soft aluminum and the threads are small and soft which is very easily damaged.
Hand Tighten the orifice and do not tighten more than 1/4 turn if at all. Leak check the connections with soapy water. When we first use the barbecue we’ll want to check the valve and orifice flow into the burner because the carburetors will need to be adjusted. Also because of the teflon tape or pipe sealant putty we’ll want to make sure nothing is interfering with the flow through the orifice.
When we first set up this conversion by matching these 88315 gas orifices to the Weber post-2010 Genesis and Spirit control valves we tested the connection by installing the orifices into a manifold removed from the Genesis 310 model.
We dumped the control valves and manifold into a bucket of water for a few hours with the gas turned on to see if it would be possible to generate a leak with increased gas pressure through the manifold.
With the gas valves attached to the manifold and the control valves turned off we have no pressure on the orifice connection.
We had to turn on the gas valves so fuel was flowing through the new orifice and then plugged it with a finger. Once we have gas pressure through the valve and through the gas orifice, with the tip of the orifice plugged any gas leak would have to bleed through the threading of the orifice.
It did not leak and did not leak through many sets of tests.
Once we have the barbecue parts replaced for the Weber fuel conversion the one step many of us forget to adjust is the carburetor adjustment. The front of the burner is where the control valve inserts the gas orifice so this is where the adjustable air shutter allows oxygen to mix with fuel — the carburetor.
Liquid Propane and Natural Gas have different mass and different oxygen requirements depending on the BTU settings. When the fuel is converted the air mixture will need to be adjusted. Typically converting NG to LP means opening the air shutters and converting LP to NG fuel means closing the air shutters.
Regardless, the air shutters should be adjusted with flames burning so the flame height can be seen and tested. Gas flames should be approximately 1-1.5 inches tall. Flames should be blue with yellow tip. Typically gas flames with a mixture of too much fuel will be taller and have too much color. Flames with too much oxygen will be very small and will sometimes appear to float above the stainless steel pipe burners.
Always properly check and test the gas connections and the adjustments.
Any time there are questions about the Weber LP or NG fuel conversion Please stop and ask the question.
Majestic Grill Parts
Grill Repair Parts For Weber BBQ Fuel Conversions are available on the Web Pages at:
from Gas Grills, Parts, Fireplaces And Service http://ift.tt/2bmlHES