The gas barbecue grill Elite models by OCI were truly exceptional gas grills with tremendous longevity and legendary design features. Unfortunately the stability of the company did not last and these awesome grills did not remain in fabrication for even a decade. The video instructions below demonstrate how to remove the control panel from an Outdoor Concepts, Inc. gas barbecue grill.
OCI gas grill parts are shown described sold and shipped from:
The OCI gas barbecue grill Elite models include the E36 and the E48 which both integrate a pressurized infrared burner at the far right side of the grilling surface. Infrared gas burners will typically heat above One Thousand Degrees inside Two Minutes! Grilling at searing temperatures is what these are made to do. The U burners in an OCI gas bbq grill are also able to be very hot and these U shaped burners have heavy stainless steel rod trays installed above the burners so the convectional heat coupled with the conductive heat radiating off these all stainless rod trays in enormous has the ability to grill above restaurant-quality searing temperatures even without the infrared burner.
However, the OCI Elite models also have a smoker and a rotisserie with their own dedicated burners and cooking system accessories. These OCI gas barbecue grill models were made to be fully capable of every and any kind of cooking style and at any type of temperature type and temperature level. Of course the goal of this particular post is not to be a cheerleader for OCI grills but showing the information in the video tutorial above.
OCI Control Panel Design Does Not Seem To Have Any Hardware Holding The Control Panel In Place.
The OCI Elite models control panel always had a nice clean appearance without bolts or screws at the four corners. There are no visible means of production across the control panel. Only when we need to repair something or access the control area for some reason do we realize we need to understand how the control panel is removed — and removed properly.
Inside The OCI Control Panel We Can See The Rotisserie Controls, Burner Valves, Ignition Assembly, Gas Manifold, and Access Anything Necessary To Repair The Grill Or Adjust Performance.
As we will have seen in the instructional video shown above, the lower drip tray slides completely out so we are able to look up inside the control panel and realize each far side of the control panel has 3 bolts holding each side in place — this is a Lot when compared to other gas grills and is really a bit much when the overall design makes to seem as though there is no hardware at all!
Six Bolts holding the control panel in place!
Fortunately, as shown in our tutorial video above, we really only have to actually extract the very lowest left and the lowest right side bolts.
Once the lowest left and right side bolt is removed from under and behind the control panel — easier typed than accomplished but not too bad I promise — the rotisserie button and the rotisserie bezel Must Be Removed with the control knobs.
Now suitably naked, the control panel will shift about a half-inch up and slide out of the front of the gas grill. Try to keep the left and right side even so the cut-out “L” shaped slot does not get caught with tension from one side getting too far ahead. It is possible to keep the control anel perfectly straight and level by sliding up and then sliding out the lower bolt before the higher bolt which is how we pull the control panel out in the video.
Once the control panel is free the only resistance will be determined by the length of the momentary switch button wires which simply pull free.
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OCI gas grill parts are shown described sold and shipped from:
Rotisserie Thermocouple Valve Keeps Turning Off Burner – Explanation Repair and Use.
Often customers contact us for assistance because a infrared rotisserie burner will turn on but then turns itself off when the control knob is released. Rotisserie infrared back burners should keep burning until we turn them off! Usually when a client contacts us with this complaint the assumption is that the thermocouple is not functioning or the burner is damaged but about ninety nine percent of the time neither of these are problematic. The safety feature of the control has a spring loaded solenoid which can be easily damaged, even inside the body of the valve.
What we are trying to demonstrate here is what and where and how this works but also how to “cheat” past this safety mechanism — but do not do this at home. This is more like a thought experiment or something a highly experienced, licensed (and insured) gas technician may consider but what we show here is meant as a thought experiment showing functionality and processes, not instructions to follow.
The hood of a gas grill is designed so the hottest part of convectional heat takes the widest diameter circulation and flows out the back of the gap behind the grill hood. When wind is blowing off the ocean or across a lake or simply blowing in this direction it can easily hinder the ability for this hottest air circulation to escape. Over time our control valves will get sticky and will eventually “freeze”, or stop turning because over time the lubrication has been slowly damaged by this heat.
The rotisserie valve solenoid is a lot more fragile. While the control valve sin this environment could take 7-10 years to “freeze” the rotisserie solenoid has a thin plastic housing around the copper coil and iron core and this is very easily warped by heat.
Although not easy to see without un-assembling the rotisserie control valve, this solenoid is often exactly the reason the rotisserie turns the burner off when ever we remove our hand from holding down the control knob as shown in the repair video above.
Infinity gas barbecue grill models made something of a big splash many years ago but the company did not last very long. Even though the Infinity barbeque’s had a lot of interesting features and benefits, once the company disappeared replacement parts for repairs became scarce…and then disappeared completely. As gas grill repair technicians we have worked on many of the Infinity models and we have discovered many other barbecue repair parts that can easily be installed as replacements in the Infinity models.
If you have an OCI gas barbecue grill you have probably already discovered the company that created these incredible barbecue grills is back to one single person trying to keep up with everything and not succeeding. Although I am a Huge fan of the grills, dealing with Outdoor Concepts, Incorporated is a very trying experience. Because a lot of the replacement parts for OCI models are not available from OCI we have had to get used to making other grill parts work for our repairs which is demonstrated in these video instructions.
It is common with any outdoor BBQ grill to replace the parts of the ignition assembly because humidity and weather cause damage and the ignition parts are so small they’re easily damaged and rust quickly if we allow corrosion to set in. Since OCI has been unable to replace the ignition electrodes or the mounting cross over collector box we have had to find another igniter replacement.
Although not originally made for OCI gas grill ignition repair, we’ve used the igniter many times in OCI grill models. Installation is easily and the grill parts work great!
Obviously this (image below) is the original cross-over collector box installed in a twenty-six inch wide Outdoor Concepts gas barbecue grill. We can tell this is the 26 model because of the L bracket that installs across the entire width of the inside front firewall of the barbecue.
Original cross over tube with sparking electrode inside is made to several sizes for different OCI bbq grill models.
The mounting bracket attaches to the inner firewall and the electrode bolts to the bottom where the bracket protects the electrode from dripping greases and marinades. On the bottom of the cross over box is the stainless cross over tube that allows the original electrode to ignite the burner to the right and left side of the ignition mounting bracket.
Under the used cross over ignition bracket the electrode and installation hardware are in bad shape after many years of grilling.
This next image shows the electrode attached to the collector box mounting bracket below the cross over bracket.
The design of the OCI ignition electrode makes it need to be replaced a lot less than most other barbecue grill ignitors but on occasion we do need to replace the electrode or the collector box cross over bracket. OCI grill parts are available for immediate shipping anywhere in the world from the following page URL:
New OCI ignitor electrode installed on new cross over mounting bracket
This image shows the original OCI electrode which has a small stainless tab on one side and a flat bracket for attaching the electrode to the collector box cross over.
This electrode is difficult to get because OCI is unreliable and they cost about 4x what a typical igniter electrode would cost. Even when the OCI electrodes were available to be ordered and quickly delivered, we were looking at other options because of the cost. Now that OCI is unable to usually deliver the electrodes and collector box with any reliability we’re happy to have looked for other options.
Since replacement parts from OCI are extinct this is the electrode replacement used to repair the OCI igniters.
This is the new replacement electrode we’re using for the OCI cross over bracket. Fortunately this electrode comes with a wide flat bracket. We only actually use one side of the mounting bracket on the electrode which comes with a nut and bolt for this purpose.
Like the original OCI replacement electrode the tip of the electrode ships longer than what is necessary so we need to line-up the tip of the steel end of the electrode and clip it to end inside the cross over tube. This ensures we’re able to position the electrode perfectly inside the cross over tube which makes the electrode capable of lighting gas from the left and right side burners in the grill.
The tip of the OCI igniter electrode ends inside the round cross-over bracket so there is lots of clean stainless for sparking on the right and left side of the electrode.
The original electrode from Outdoor Concepts, Inc. also shipped too long. The different models of OCI grills have different sized brackets and the extra length at the tip of the ignition is intentional so the tip can be clipped to a perfect size every time. The new replacement does exactly the same thing which makes it a great replacement for all OCI models.
Replacing The OCI Ignitor Mounting Bracket
Where we have trouble is when the cross over collector box needs to be replaced because OCI almost never has these available to repair the ignitors on the grills.
Fortunately we have also come up with a working replacement for the entire electrode cross over collector box assembly.
Without replacement parts from OCI this electrode and cross-over ignitor bracket works great between all OCI U burners in any OCI model gas grill.
As we can see in this image and in the instructional video above, this assembly will replace the OCI ignition assembly in the various OCI barbecue grill models!
We originally tested this ignition electrode assembly because the cross over box is like the OCI design. One ignitor to light both burners and function as a simple cross-over box if the ignitors were not sparking.
Many barbecue models have cross-over boxes that are completely separate from the igniter electrodes because when we must manually light one burner, cross-over tubes permit flame from one burner to jump across to the gas coming from another burner when the ignitors are not working.
The design of this electrode assembly made us think of using it in the OCI although we believed we would need to drill into the firewall in order to slide-through the threaded sleeve around the electrode. However, the electrode fits and the included bracket has holes in it that match the OCI holes Perfectly! Personally, I have never needed to use the bracket that comes with this electrode. When installing this igniter, we slide the threaded tube trough the firewall and then we tighten the thin nuts on either side of the firewall to hole the electrode solidly in place. Installing the igniter into the OCI the holes lines up perfectly for installation in addition to the threading and nuts attached to the ceramic electrode.
Not only is this electrode attached in two different places, by twisting the electrode we were able to bend the mounting panel to make it even tighter — as shown in the image. The mounting bracket is tight against the firewall at the top where the bolts thread through the fire wall but at the bottom we twisted the reverse so there is a lot of tension between the points on the mounting bracket. This is Not necessary. The electrode assembly will tightly attached without generating the extra tension. The electrode is completely immobilized to spark between the U burners so our One new electrode can light the flames of both grill burners.
More importantly, this is an ignition electrode that is easily selected, shipped, received and installed — and it works!
As Always, if You need help, have questions, need barbecue grill repair parts and replacement assistance, Please Contact:
Weber Spirit and Genesis models since 2010 have the control knobs across the front of the firebox which is different from any of the Spirit or Genesis models in previous decades. This change means the burners are totally different, control valves are different, knobs, orifices, supports, architecture….Everything about these Weber models is different from previous models. Unfortunately this also refers to who is manufacturing the barbecues.
If we had a Weber model fabricated in 2003 and another model from 1995 a lot of the parts would be exactly the same or very similar but this is no longer the case. In our previous tutorials about Weber fuel conversions we’ve known the video instructions and written instructions could easily be applied to Weber models manufactured any time until 2010. This particular video is specifically for these new Spirit and Genesis models since 2010 which have the controls across the front of the fire box.
In my own opinion, changing the Weber orifices is easier going in through the firebox instead of disassembling the control panel. I believe this because these barbecues have only been made since 2010 and they’re not typically so filthy that it is difficult to have the burners and electrodes removed. In older barbecues I usually will suggest removing the controls to get to the valves and orifices but with a newer model that has not been used a thousand times, the bolts are usually fairly strong and it is easy to remove the burners. Eventually this will not be the case.
This bolt threads into the cast aluminum firebox and the burner clips around the threads. We do not have to remove the bolt to remove the burner but removing the bolt makes lifting the burner easier.
This image shows the back of the firebox where the barbecue grill burners are held in place by a bolt threaded into the cast aluminum firebox. When we remove the burners we will remove this bolt so the burner is able to be lifted straight up from the back and then we slide the burner towards the back as we lift the pipe burner.
Burner Removal From Genesis Spirit Users Manual Showing How To Remove and Install BBQ Burner.
This schematic from the assembly specifications in the Weber users manual shows the stainless steel pie burner being removed. This schematic drawing also shows us what we cannot see happening inside the control panel, behind the firewall. The front of the burner is the air-shutter which installs by sliding onto the end of the control valve where the orifice is attached.
The schematic also shows loosening the wire to the electrode which is clipped to the burner but because I usually do not remove the control panel for these conversions I usually allow the wire to simply pull free as we pull the burner off the valve.
Also shown here is that the burner will have a little bit of wiggle to it. This is normal. The galvanized steel bolt tightens into the cast aluminum firebox so we do not want to risk over-tightening anything. Aluminum is a malleable metal and can be broken very easily.
The bolt holds the burner perfectly straight, level, square and unable to slide off the valve. A little bit of wiggle is not going to cause any problems.
Slide the electrode back to uninstall grill burner. BBQ igniter clips to pipe burner so we have to unclip ignition as the burner is removed then re-clip to burner when installing barbecue pipe burner.
As the burner is removed from the firebox the electrode wire will draw tight and will stop us from continuing to lift out the bbq burner. Unclip the ignition from the burner by sliding the electrode back towards the front of the burner air shutter.
The clip on the ignition electrode is able to get caught in the sliding air shutter so pay attention to the electrode clip as the igniter slides out of the clip on the pipe burner.
Once the electrode has been disengaged from the burner we can leave the ignitor alone; just leave the electrodes lying in the barbecue until it is time to reinstall the burners and we will re-attach the electrode ignition to the burner.
Looking from inside the barbecue firebox we can see the control valve and orifice in Weber Genesis and Spirit bbq grill model.
Once the burner is out of the Weber Genesis and Spirit post-2010 barbeque grill model we can see through the hole where the burner came through and we can see the orifice in the end of the control valve.
If we are going to convert the fuel type in a barbecue grill, we will need to replace these orifices with the new orifices for liquid propane or for natural gas depending on the type of fuel conversion being conducted.
Weber Genesis and Spirit fuel conversion shows new orifice replacing original orifice in control valve.
When we show this image and in the video above how we replace one gas jet orifice with an other gas orifice we can see where and how the orifice threads into the valve thick with a putty sealant.
Unfortunately when we are converting the fuel type in a post-2010 Weber Genesis and Spirit barbecue grill model, we cannot see the orifice in the valve but instead have to feel our way through the orifice replacements. In the video you will see I have placed a square of a paper napkin into the 7mm socket being used to install the gas orifice. I do this because the orifice hex-head is so thin, the orifice is able to slide into the socket and be too deep inside the socket so the threads cannot be threaded into the valves.
I put a square of paper into the socket so the 9/32″ orifice hex-head can be held by the socket driver without the orifice sliding deeper into the socket and becoming unable to be threaded safely into the control valve.
When threading the orifice into the valve, hand tighten the orifice until the orifice is tight. This is usually tight enough but if we do use a tool like a ratchet to tighten the socket, be extraordinarily slow and careful. We are threading soft brass in to soft aluminum and the threads are small and soft which is very easily damaged.
Hand Tighten the orifice and do not tighten more than 1/4 turn if at all. Leak check the connections with soapy water. When we first use the barbecue we’ll want to check the valve and orifice flow into the burner because the carburetors will need to be adjusted. Also because of the teflon tape or pipe sealant putty we’ll want to make sure nothing is interfering with the flow through the orifice.
After successful fuel conversion Weber Genesis and Spirit burners burn perfectly once air shutters are properly adjusted.
When we first set up this conversion by matching these 88315 gas orifices to the Weber post-2010 Genesis and Spirit control valves we tested the connection by installing the orifices into a manifold removed from the Genesis 310 model.
We dumped the control valves and manifold into a bucket of water for a few hours with the gas turned on to see if it would be possible to generate a leak with increased gas pressure through the manifold.
Weber Genesis and Spirit manifold being tested for leaks is water bucket to see if any gas is able to leak from orifices installed.
With the gas valves attached to the manifold and the control valves turned off we have no pressure on the orifice connection.
We had to turn on the gas valves so fuel was flowing through the new orifice and then plugged it with a finger. Once we have gas pressure through the valve and through the gas orifice, with the tip of the orifice plugged any gas leak would have to bleed through the threading of the orifice.
It did not leak and did not leak through many sets of tests.
Perfect flame patterns in Genesis and Spirit barbecue grill models after fuel conversion when gas regulator and orifices have been changed.
Once we have the barbecue parts replaced for the Weber fuel conversion the one step many of us forget to adjust is the carburetor adjustment. The front of the burner is where the control valve inserts the gas orifice so this is where the adjustable air shutter allows oxygen to mix with fuel — the carburetor.
Liquid Propane and Natural Gas have different mass and different oxygen requirements depending on the BTU settings. When the fuel is converted the air mixture will need to be adjusted. Typically converting NG to LP means opening the air shutters and converting LP to NG fuel means closing the air shutters.
Regardless, the air shutters should be adjusted with flames burning so the flame height can be seen and tested. Gas flames should be approximately 1-1.5 inches tall. Flames should be blue with yellow tip. Typically gas flames with a mixture of too much fuel will be taller and have too much color. Flames with too much oxygen will be very small and will sometimes appear to float above the stainless steel pipe burners.
Always properly check and test the gas connections and the adjustments.
Any time there are questions about the Weber LP or NG fuel conversion Please stop and ask the question.
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Grill Repair Parts For Weber BBQ Fuel Conversions are available on the Web Pages at:
This instructional video shows the burners in an Outdoor Concepts, Inc. — OCI — barbecue grill being replaced even though burners for these models are not available from OCI. Hopefully availability from OCI will change but whether OCI makes repair parts available or not, we still have to be able to repair the OCI gas grills so our customers can grill.
First the video and then some more detailed direction.
The tutorial video pretty much shows it all but there was some preparation before what is shown in the installation instructions for these U burners into the OCI 26 inch model.
At First the closest burner we could find Still would not fit because the cross-over tubes were too long and the burner was not long enough to reach the back support.
When we initially attempted a series of different U shaped burners none fit into the OCI-26. The center venturi tube has to be long enough to reach the gas valve orifice through the front firewall snd into the control panel. With the center feed tube on the orifice the back of the U burner had to be close to 21 inches to be supported by the original OCI burner support bracket and the width of the burner has to be very narrow if the new U burner is going to be installed between the center and side cross over tubes.
We tried about ninety burners before we had to acceot that a perfect fit was not going to be available anyplace.
The U burner we finally decided to use was the closest fit of the bunch but we had to cut through the side and center flash tubes because they stuck out too far into the space we needed to replace the U burner.
Front burner and ignition bracket is attached to the inner firewall and assists with burner installation and fast gas ignition.
In order to remove and replace the U burners the front support bracket must be uninstalled. Unfortunately, by the time your Outdoor Concepts, Inc barneque needs a new U burner, the possibility is very good the originally stainless steel mounting bolts will have rusted.
We can replace the bolts with new, clean bolts when we’re done if we are carefull when we remove the originals.
What we’re showing in the instructional video is cutting off the head so we can remove the bracket. With the head of the bolt removed the bolt is still threaded through the hole in the firewall but once the bracket is gone we have enough of the bolt sticking out that we’re able to grab the bolt with a vice-grip plier and then unscrew the bolt through the firewall.
Of the four bolts in this firewall, I ruined one and had to pull it through with the vice-grip which ruined the threads.
When the burner is installed we cannot see the air-shutter end of the center feed tube which presses into the control panel so the venturi can slide onto the gas control orifice.
With the front bracket removed the new U burner can be installed by first sliding the front center feed tube through the hole in the front firewall. The carburetor with the adjustable shutter has to be safely inserted over that gas orifice cap which is threaded onto the tip of the control valve.
Once the burner is fully installed, we will revisit the carburetor so we can adjust the mixture of fuel and oxygen for the best possible flames burning in the U burner.
Back Brackets ship with these new burners so the burners can be safely installed level and well supported for long term cooking.
In the back of the burner, the longest burners we can use that are still narrow enough to be made to fit are still too short for the Outdoor Concepts, Inc gas grill fire box.
When a customer purchases the U burner replacement we have been sending these U tube installation brackets for free. These U burner brackets are designed for exactly this purpose — just in a different make and model of barbecue where they are almost never actually needed.
In the 26 inch OCI barbecue grill these brackets can be installed so the burners are level from left to right and from front to back and as we can see in these images and video showing the OCI burning well.
Gas barbecue grill replacement parts are available for OCI and all other barbecue grill models and BBQ grill come with the additional support and assistance of highly trained, educated and experiences gas technicians.
inner front firewall of DCS bbq grill shows pins drooping because welds have broken. Radiant rod trays will not be held in place with damaged, drooping pins.
Since Dynamic Cooking Systems barbecue grill models started using radiant rod trays for heat conduction, about two decades have passed. Although this particular problem has not become an epidemic in these BG and BGA and BGB models it is a problem that will become more common as time passes because these barbecues — back then when they were actually manufactured by DCS — were fabricated with the best materials available and manufactured to live up to a lifetime warranty.
The radiant rod trays in the DCS gas grill is supported by two pins welded in the front and back of the barbecue fire box so the radiant cannot fall into the burner and remains level below the cooking grates. Eventually we are going to have to deal with these pins breaking their welds from oxidation.
In the image shown here the pins have broken the welds inside the control panel so they’re drooping down and are unable to support the radiant rod trays…or anything else.
Pins in firewall make a shelf for radiant rod tray support below the grate.
Inside the control panel we can see the radiant support pin design which has a pounded stainless base made larger for welding through the firewall.
The radiant support pins can be removed because of the design welded through the firewall which includes a bulbous support to make the spot welding job easier — but less effective.
Sometimes it is necessary to smack the pin with a hammer to get them the rest of the was disconnected from the firewall but if it is possible at all, try not to tear the stainless steel of the firewall. We need the hole to be through the firewall but the smaller the hole ends of being, the better the new support pins will adhere to the stainless steel.
With the DCS radiant rod tray supports gone we’ll use bolts with multiple nuts and washers to clamp the bolts to the firewall as a new support.
In this image the radiant support pins have been removed and we can see the right side hole is a lot smaller than the left side hole through the grill firewall. The firewall has the inside of the barbecue grill on one side and the control panel area on the other side with the ignition parts, control valves, gas manifold pipe, etc. This firewall separates the controls from the inside if the gas grilling area.
We will need to have the control panel removed to replace the radiant rod tray support pins. To add supports we will need a stainless steel bolt about two inches long and at least two nuts with two washers. Nowadays it is not easy to buy all solid stainless steel nuts bolts and washers but try. Most parts today are galvanized or coated steel and this kind of material will crack the sealant and rust when the material expands and contracts from heating and cooling.
With the new nuts and bolts support the DCS rod tray has the extended bolt for support.
With at least two nuts and two washers on the bolt we will mount the bolt with one washer and nut on either side of the firewall so the bolt is tightly held attached level on the firewall while the washers are tightly holding onto the stainless steel firewall. This way the bolt is solidly mounted and sticking out inside the grilling area.
Once the multiple nuts clamp tightly to the firewall the bolt can support the weight of the radiant rod tray.
New bolt supports are easy to make last a long time and easy to replace if using cheaper bolts
This particular flame thrower control valve is no longer available so we have had to fabricate another replacement valve and a new ignition design as shown in this instructional video.
The reason this ignition design works so well is because the firewall that separates the control valves from the heat inside the fie box has a large square opening for the flame thrower ignition system.
when the original valve is installed the opening for the orifice to slide into the burner is not the only opening in the firewall because the flame-thrower needs that large rectangular opening for the gas flow ignition.
These replacement valves are made to replace these original flame-thrower valves so the valve stem, clamp design, length, angle and orifice are all exactly the same as the original. These new valves do not have an automatic ignition.
In order to install a simple and reliable ignition system we replace the battery operated module for the rotisserie and install a similar ignition module with 3 or 4 or 6 outlets instead of the one electrode outlet on the original module.
Now we can plug-in as many ignitor electrodes as we want so we have a sparking ignitor electrode on every burner — and they all spark of this one single button.
As we see in this image, the original flame thrower control valve has the common hole through the firewall for the orifice to extend into the burner but this valve has forced another opening in the fire wall. The large rectangular opening is for the flame-thrower ignitor which ignites a small puff of fuel to ignite the burner.
With this extra opening in the fire wall this make it very easy for us to install a new electrode where it will be solidly installed right next to the burner. Essentially we are able to use the original firebox design to install a totally new, simply and reliable ignitor system.
the electrodes install through the wall just next to the cast iron burners for perfect sparking and very simple adjustments if needed for better ignition and for easy cleaning.
With a threaded electrode and a couple of large washers we are able to very easily attach the electrode through the flame thrower opening in the firewall. The installation design, length and location make the electrode perfectly placed for fast effective ignition.
These electrodes have an extra long steel rod tip which makes them very easy to adjust for a tighter gap or to clean or spark better by clipping or bending into the overhang of the cast iron burner design. As we see in the instructional video above the electrodes spark reliably and are very tightly held against the firewall so the wires are protected inside the control panel.
Not only is the control valve a great replacement but the only problem we have had with these valve is that they do not have an automatic ignition– and now they do!
new ignition electrode and turbo sts jenn air burner in bbq grill after replacing the new control valve and wiring a new ignitor system for fast east ignition.
The new ignition electrodes are all plugged in to the new module so all the electrodes fire together when the button is pressed on the control panel. With the new ignitor module the side burner range, rotisserie, smoker, and all barbecue burners are all igniting reliably from the same new module and the electrodes we have now installed.
Need Help with your barbecue grill valves, ignitors or any questions about any kind of gas barbecue grill repair? Please contact us for any kind of assistance.
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Convert Weber Genesis 330 BBQ Grill To Use Propane or Natural Gas.
What is Odd is the editor for this tutorial video had some “problems” with our shots and written instructions. The result you will notice is some slowed shots but the strangest thing for me is the mispronunciation of the word “valve”. I did not have them change the voice-over because it would have added a lot of down-time waiting to have the video back and I’m hoping you, the viewer will be able to tell what we’re looking at well enough to receive the support you need for your Weber Genesis 330 model fuel conversion.
If you do have additional questions or need and assistance, contact us anytime with any question.
While most online “stores” Never see, Never touch, Never know anything about the products listed for sale on their web pages (the obvious trend is web sites selling various products which are stocked by import companies who also ship for hundreds of different web-sites who all pretend to be actual professional companies when they’re only telephone answering services) we have been working on gas barbecues, fireplaces, fire pits, and other gas appliances for 3 decades. We stock our own inventory because we use this inventory on a daily basis.
We work on gas barbecues, grills, smokers, fireplaces and fire pits and there is No Question we cannot help support and provide answers based on 3 decades of training, formal education and hundreds of thousands of on-site experiences!
Genesis 330 models have 4 burners inside the firebox and one side burner range on the side shelf. Controls are in front of the barbecue.
Like converting the type of fuel used in any barbecue grill, converting Weber barbecue grills is not difficult. As with any gas appliance the essential parts to be changed are the same. Fuel conversion means changing the in-coming gas connection, changing the regulator for liquid propane or natural gas and then changing each orifice for the type of fuel being regulated.
Getting to the orifices in a Genesis 330 model is typically easier than you probably suspect. With the cooking grates and flavorizer shields out of the barbeque we are looking at the pipe burners installed front to back. The control valves and orifices are inside the front control panel so we will need to slowly unscrew the 4 bolts in the very back because these 4 bolts lock in the 4 burner pipes. We need the burners out of position so we can reach through the inner firewall to remove the orifices as shown in the instructional video above.
Unscrew burner bolt to remove Weber Genesis burner carefully because the bolts and/or cast aluminum fire box can be easily damaged.
Please Note: My own experience with these Genesis and Spirit models from after 2010 is that the level of quality is Far Below those Weber models manufactured when the Weber-Stephens family still owned and controlled the company. Many times we have unscrewed the burner-bolts only to have the bolt or the threaded aluminum casting crack. Even expecting weakness and using lubrication, moving slow, cleaning away dirt and grease build-up, Every Single One of these 4 bolts Broke as we slowly unscrewed them to slide back the burner pipes. Every One Broke!
The image Above shows a heat-resistant liquid welding glue type product to essentially glue the bolt in place. With the bolt not completely sunk-in to the hole we made sure that 1 — the notch in back of the burner fit on the bolt so the burner could not be moved and the burner would be perfectly straight and — 2 — the burner is raised about a half-inch so we will be able to twist-lift the pipe burner to still remove the burner if we ever need to remove or replace the pipe burner.
Slide Weber Genesis burner out of way to access orifice in control valve. Burners can be partially removed to avoid dislodging the ignition electrode.
Once the burners are out of the way we can access the orifices from inside the barbecue firebox as you can see in this picture. Also in this image we see the burners were not totally removed. We prefer to work this was because only moving the burners enough for them to be out of the way means we do not have to remove the ignition electrodes which are clipped to the burner pipe.
Although the Weber igniter electrodes are easy to remove and replace, in a barbeque like this one that is several years old, it is possible the steel tabs that bend to hold the electrode tightly into the groove of the support bracket made be dirty and weak enough to break. In a well-used Weber model like this one, it is easy to access the orifices and valves without opening up a possibility we’ll damage the electrode attachment in the process.
Although slightly different, both orifices demonstrate the need for thread sealant and function well in LP and NG fuel conversion.
Once we move the burners we will unscrew the old orifices and thread-in the New Orifices. The orifices Need “pipe-dope” which is a putty sealant available in any hardware store. The orifices used as replacements look and feel different. Just ass you may notice the originals have a lot of putty gas sealant on the threads, the new orifices will also need gas sealant on the threads.
Please remember we are threading brass into aluminum and both metals are soft. We can easily damage the valve and orifice with very little strength. The threading Must Be Sealed so fuel only flows through the hole in the orifice so allow the sealant putty to do the work, tighten the orifices without over-tightening and watch the valve-orifice-burner union for awhile after the initial conversion to check your work.
Weber Spirit and Genesis valve orifice slides into pipe burner to limit NG or LP gas flow in end shared with air shutter adjustment sleeve.
As we see in this image — and video above — we’ll slide the burners back onto the tip of the valve after replacing the gas orifices in the end of the control valves. The air shutter adjustment will be different for NG as for LP because LP is a vaporized liquid whereas NG distribution allows some oxygen in the fuel. It is not necessary to remove the steel plate under the control panel Shown In This Image but making these minute air shutter adjustments is a lot easier without removing the burner pipe over and over while testing the flame.
We have several detailed blog posts with instructional videos and images so Contact Majestic Grill Parts for assistance with Anything to do with converting, testing, using, checking your barbecue grill.
Weber Genesis Spirit Summit all have the same Side Burner Range design so all models are easy to Convert to use liquid propane or natural gas.
As we can see in the tutorial video above the side burner range is the easiest burner to convert. The orifice is accessible without taking anything apart and this makes the orifice easy to access, change and replace. Fortunately, All Weber side burner range top burners have been this same design in All Genesis, Spirit and Summit models so these are All Usually The Simplest Part of Any Fuel Conversion.
The Weber Genesis 330 side burner and orifice is exactly the same as the Genesis 320 model which is the same as the Spirit 320 model and exactly the same burner design as the Summit models.
Weber LP tank scales should always be used for safety with all Genesis, Spirit and Summit models because the tank position, attachment and venting make this the safest location.
Once All the gas orifices have been changed we will also attach the new LP or NG connections to the connection inside the right door where the manifold extension is safely attached to the wall of the barbecue cart.
When Weber still owned Weber and still sold a fuel conversion kit for every Weber model of Genesis, Spirit, Summit, Vieluxe, etc and fuel conversion that was going to use a portable 5 gallon LP cylinder Had To Also Include a Tank Scale.
Although the tank scale is convenient by showing the level of remaining fuel by the weight of the tank the Real Reason the tank was considered mandatory by Weber and was specifically defined in Weber’s Safety Certification is Safety.
The tank scale bolts to the side of the barbecue right side wall and the immobilization of the tank makes it safer while also forcing the tank to be in a position away from the grease-drip pan that could cause a fire. Weber no longer allows or supports or supplies fuel conversion parts so buying the tank scale is not enforced — but it is a Very Wise Idea to use the tank scale with a 20 lb LP cylinder.
Any fuel conversion for any barbecue is simple. Although Weber makes this difficult, the process is still the same. The actual replacement parts are available on the Weber grill parts page located at:
This video shows a newly designed control valve installation to replace the flame thrower valves in Turbo STS barbecue models. These Turbo STS valves are no longer available so we had to have new control valves custom fabricated to replace the originals. Although not flame thrower valves with automatic ignition, the clamp-on to the manifold, valve stem knob connection, valve body, angle, extension and gas orifices are all exactly the same as the original Turbo STS flame thrower valves from BBQ Galore.
Find barbecue grill replacement parts for All Turbo barbeque grill models from the pages linked below or contact us for more information.
When We Had this valve custom fabricated as a replacement for the Turbo STS barbecue grill models the price was going to triple if we had the flame-thrower functionality added so the automatic ignition was still working when the control valves were replaced with these new valves.
The video copied here shows the process of installing replacement control valves in a Turbo STS by BBQ Galore. The video instructions also demonstrate how to replace the igniter module so we can add as many ignition electrodes as we choose to install in the grill with one single, simple ignitor button.
original flame thrower turbo sts valve installed in bbq grill. From inside the firewall only the orifice extension and the automatic ignition flame thrower is visible.
This image, shot from inside the barbecue grill shows the front end of the STS flame thrower control valve when it is installed on the gas manifold. Sticking out into the barbecue is the brass extension with the small spud type gas orifice in the tip. The barbecue grill burner will install by sliding onto the orifice and extension which will support the front end of the burner.
Just next to the burner is the secondary orifice that shoots a small puff of flame past the ignition electrode to ignite the burner. This is the part of the control valve called the “flame thrower”.
The original STS valves used and old compared to the replacement. This is not a replacement parts we found that works but is a valve we had manufactured to replace the Turbo STS controls.
These images are here to shoe comparisons between the newly designed replacement valve for the Turbo STS and the original valve being replaced.
This control valve replacement comparison with original flame thrower shows the Essential Parts Are The Same.
The design of the extension and the orifice are identical and the angle of the valve body, valve stem in front for the control knobs and the bottom clamp design where the valve attaches to the gas manifold pipe are All Identical.
The only difference is that we made this valve without the flame thrower function of an automatic ignition. We were able to do that because of the prohibitive cost and because there is an ignitor module already in the front control panel of STS models. We can easily replace this module with a module that has more electrode outlets and add up to 8 electrodes throughout the STS gas grill.
Majestic Grill Parts publishes all kinds of explanatory and tutorial blog posts on our blog site so if you are uncertain of what is a flame thrower control valve in a barbecue grill you can look up that video blog post in the search feature at the top left corner of the page.
Although the control valve we are able to use as a replacement does not have the automatic ignition feature, the STS models have a control-panel-mounted ignition module. In the video shown on this page we simply and quickly expand that opening and add a AA battery module instead of the AAA battery module that came in the control panel of this STS barbeque. Once we have a module with six or eight outlets, we can easily install up to eight individual ignitor electrodes. Any electrode will work because once the gas flows through the burner any spark will cause the burner to light. Any igniter electrode we are comfortable installing next to or above the grill burner will spark and ignite the gas emitting from the cast iron barbecue burners.
For additional assistance, direct any questions or concerns to Majestic Grill Parts:
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